How To Make My Peter Prim Tail Primitive Bunny & Free E-Pattern

What could be better than stories about bunnies, reading, and libraries?  Not much as far as I'm concerned.  Well, maybe add dolls, Victorian dresses and history...lol

"Peter Prim Tail!" and his sister, "Prim Me A Bunny, Mitzy!" are on their way to read to the "bunny kids" at the "Great Bunny Library." 

They love to be involved in their bunny community and volunteered to read to the younger bunnies at the weekly story hour. 

Maybe we should say, that "Prim Me A Bunny, Mitzy!" thought it would be a wonderful idea for her and her brother, "Peter Prim Tail!" to read to all the younger bunnies. Leave it to sisters to decide for their younger brothers...lol 

Peter, on the other hand, would rather be out teaching the younger bunny boys any variety of sports. Hopping, jumping, skipping, relay races, leap frogging, hurdle jumping - that's his thing. 

Reading is really Mitzy's thing. But, Mitzy asked him ever so sweetly, so how could he say "no!" He couldn't, so they're off to the "Great Bunny Library" to read to the kids. 

They're only problem is what should they read?

"Peter Prim Tail!" has decided that he wants to read the bunny kids some of his favorite comic books.

His sister, Mitzy, doesn't consider comic books real books, but Peter feels that to get the "bunny boys", in particular, interested in reading that he should read them something to hold their interest. 

And, "Peter Rabbit" and "Alice In Wonderland" are just not going to hold their attention. At least, he doesn't think so. 

Mitzy is not so sure. She loves the classics and thinks the "bunny kids" will too. Even the boys. 

But, Peter is her brother and is being so nice about reading to the "bunny kids" she doesn't want to upset that. 

So, she'll let Peter win this battle. At least for this week's story hour.

Peter and Mitzy had so much fun with the kids I thought you all might like to learn how I made them. 

So, I decided to tell you so you could make some Peter and Mitzy bunnies of your own and read some books to your own children or even take them with you when you're reading at the local library. I'm sure the kids will love them, too.

"Peter Prim Tail!" is a 20" primitive cloth bunny with an embroidered face with two button eyes. His nose is zig-zag embroidered with black floss and his mouth is outlined with a back stitch in black floss. His eyebrows and eyelashes are straight stitched with black floss, his cheeks are blushed, and he has freckles and whiskers. His ears are wired and bendable and he has cloth plaid inner ears. He is wearing his favorite shirt and pants. His pants are gathered at the waist and tied in several spots with ties along his legs. His shirt is frayed and has a center pocket. It is gathered at the neck edge. A fringed bandanna is wrapped around his neck and tied in a knot in the front.

Designer - Linda Walsh Originals

Here's how I made Peter:  

Supplies Needed…..         

1/2 Yard Muslin Fabric (for body, arms and legs)

1/4 Yard Fabric (for shirt and inner ear)

1/4 Yard Fabric (for pants) 

1/4 Yard Fabric (for pant ties, pockets, and bandanna)

Poly-fil (for body, arms and legs)

1/4” 2-Hole White Buttons (for eyes)  - 2

Micron Pigma  Marker (for freckles)  - Brown

Pipe Cleaners (for ears)  - 2

Blush 

DMC Embroidery Floss—Black 

Glue Sticks and Glue Gun

Upholstery Thread and Sewing Thread

Linda Walsh Originals - LW205 “Peter Prim Tail” – 20” Primitive Bunny Doll Pattern Instructions 

IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING.

1.  All seam allowances are ¼” unless otherwise stated.

2.  RST = Right Sides Together                   WST = Wrong Sides Together          WS = Wrong Side

3.  RSO = Right Sides Out                          WSO = Wrong Sides Out                  RS = Right Side

4.  Clip all curves and corners.                                 

5.  Glue is hot glue unless otherwise noted.

6.  Iron fabric pieces and seams as required.  Seam edges should be ironed flat.

7.  Trace all pattern pieces onto tracing paper or tissue paper, or use the enclosed pattern pieces directly.  

Trim seams as required with pinking shears.

Cut all fabric pieces outside the black lines shown on the pattern.  

BODY, HEAD and LEGS:   Cut the doll’s body (front and back) and legs out of the muslin fabric, as indicated on the pattern pieces.   

Mark the Points A on the body (front and back) where indicated in the body (front and back) pattern for the arm placement (See Diagram #1).  

Lightly trace the doll’s eyelashes, eyebrows, nose and mouth onto the muslin piece using the a pencil (See Diagram #1)a.   

Do not trace the #’s and eyes.  They are there only to indicate where the eyes and blush placed should be applied, later on in the pattern.   

The face will be embroidered later in this pattern.  

   

With WST turn the bottom edge of the body (front) under 1/4” and stitch (See Diagram #1a).  

Do not turn the bottom edge of the body (back) under (See Diagram #1a).  

With RST sew the body (front and back) together along the side seam leaving the side seams open between the two Points B (See Diagram #1a). 

Clip the shoulder curves and all along the head (See Diagram #1a).  

Turn the body (front and back) RSO (See Diagram #1a).    

With RST sew the legs together along the side seams (See Diagram #1b).    

Leave the body edge open for stuffing, as indicated in the leg pattern.   

Clip all curves and turn RSO (See Diagram #1b).   

Stuff the legs with poly-fill to the stuff to here line, as indicated in the leg pattern (See Diagram #1b). 

Don’t stuff the legs too tightly.  

With RST position the legs on the body (back) along the leg placement lines indicated in the body (front and back) pattern and stitch (See Diagram #1c).  

The body edge of the back of the legs and bottom edge of the body (back) should be RST and even, and the feet should be facing away from the body (back) (See Diagram #1c).  

Make sure the feet will be facing in the right direction when the doll is righted  (See Diagram #1c).  

Hand or machine sew the bottom edge of the body (front) to the bottom edge of the body (back) (See Diagram #1c)

Stuff the body firmly with poly-fil and then hand stitch the opening in the side seams between the Points B closed with upholstery thread  (See Diagram #1d). 

ARMS:   Cut the arms out of the muslin fabric, as indicated on the pattern piece.  

With RST sew the arms together along the side seams (See Diagram #2a).   

Leave the body edge open for stuffing.   

Clip the curves and turn RSO (See Diagram #2a).  

Stuff the arms with poly-fill to the stuff to here line, as indicated in the arm pattern (See Diagram #2a).  

Don’t stuff the arms too tightly.   

With WST fold the body edge of the arms under ¼” and machine stitch closed (See Diagram #2b).  

With RST position the arms on the shoulders of the body between Points A of the body (front) and Point A of the body (back) as indicated in the body pattern.  

Hand-stitch the body edge of the arms to the body (front and back) with upholstery thread (See Diagram #2b).  

The arms should be hanging down the sides of the doll.   

EARS:    Cut the ears out of the muslin fabric  and the inner ears out of the same fabric as you will using for the shirt, as indicated on the pattern pieces. 

 

Pin the WS of one of the inner ears to the RS of one of the ear pieces so that the inner ear is centered within the ear (See Diagram #3a).  

Sew the WS of one of the inner ears to the RS of one of the ears sewing 1/8” away from the edges of the inner ear (See Diagram #3a).   

Do the same with the other inner ear piece and one of the other ear pieces.  

With RST sew one of the ears with the inner ear attached to one of the ear pieces without the inner ear attached and then turn it RSO (See Diagram #3a).  

With RST sew the other ear with the inner ear attached to the other ear piece without the inner ear attached and then turn it RSO (See Diagram #3a).  

Fold each of the pipe cleaners in half.   Twist the ends of each to form a loop and insert one into one of the ears and one into the other ear (See Diagram #3a).  

Spread the pipe cleaners within the ears so that they are close to the side edges and away from the body edge.  

With WST turn the body edge of the ears under 1/4” (See Diagram #3b).  

Pin the head edge of the ears to the top of the head along the side seam leaving a spacing of about 1/4” in between (See Diagram #3b).   

Using the upholstery thread sew the body edge of the ears to the top of the head with small blind stitches (See Diagram #3b).  

Bend the ears forward (See Diagram #3b).  

 

FACE:  You are going to embroider most of the face with 2 strands of the DMC Embroidery floss.

Make sure that when you embroider the dolls face the beginning and ending knots of the DMC Embroidery floss will be on the back of the dolls back or neck and, eventually, covered by the top of the dolls shirt. 

 

Straight stitch the eyelashes, nose and eyebrows with two strands of the black DMC Embroidery floss (See Diagram #4).  

Backstitch the mouth with the black DMC Embroidery floss (See Diagram #4).   

Sew the 1/4” 2-hole white button for the eyes using the upholstery thread (See Diagram #4).  

Blush the cheeks with the blush (See Diagram #4).  

Apply freckles to the cheeks using the brown Micron Pigma Marker (See Diagram #4).  

You are going to create one area of whiskers on the cheeks with 4 strands of floss in it on the left hand side of the face and on the right hand side of the face.  

To do so thread 4 strands of the black DMC Embroidery floss into a needle.  

Tie a knot in the end of the strand about 1” away from the end.  

Insert the thread into the cheek area on the right hand side of the face.  

Pull the floss until the knot meets the cheek then take a small stitch and insert the needle into the same area, again, and come out around the same position on the cheek on the left hand side of the face.  

Take a stitch and then knot the black DMC Embroidery floss and trim it 1” away from your knot.  

PANTS:    Tape the Pants Part A (Front and Back) pattern piece sheet to the Pants Part B (Front and Back) pattern piece sheet where indicated on the pants pattern piece sheets before cutting out the Pants (Front and Back) piece.  

Mark Point A on the pants (front and back) sections where indicated in the pants (front and back) pattern (See Diagram #5a) 

 

With RST sew the side seams of the pants (front and back) (See Diagram #5a).  

With RST sew the pants (front and back) along the center seam to Point A, as indicated in the pants (front and back) pattern and then cut along the center seam line to Point A (See Diagram #5a).    

With WST turn the top edge of the pants (front and back) under 1/4” and stitch (See Diagram #5a).  

With WST turn the bottom hem edge of the pants (front and back) under 1” and stitch (See Diagram #5a).  

Turn the pants (front and back) RSO (See Diagram #5b).  

Put the pants on the doll (See Diagram #5b).  

Sew a gathering stitch with the black DMC Embroidery floss along the top edge of the pants.  

Gather the top edge of the pants to the waist of the doll, knot and tie in a bow in the front (See Diagram #5b). 

  

Tie 3 ties in a knot in the front to each pant leg where indicated in Diagram #5c.  

SHIRT:     Make sure the shirt is cut out on a double fold, as indicated on the pattern piece.

Mark the two Points A where shown in the shirt (front and back) pattern (See Diagram #6a).  

Clip the shirt (front and back) between Point A on the left hand side of the shirt and Point A on the right hand side of the shirt to form the neck edge (See Diagram #6a).  

Pin the WS of the pocket to the RS of the shirt (front) in the pocket placement area where indicated in the shirt (front and back) pattern (See Diagram #6a).   

Sew the pocket to the shirt 1/8” from the sides edges and bottom edge (See Diagram #6a).     

You are going to fray the bottom hem edge of the shirt (front and back) and sleeve hem edges of the shirt (front and back) before you sew the side seams.  

Fray the bottom hem edge of the shirt (front and back) by pulling 5-6 pieces of horizontal thread out of the bottom hem edge (See Diagram #6a).  

Fray the sleeve hem edge of the shirt (front and back) by pulling 5-6 pieces of vertical thread out of the sleeve hem edge (See Diagram #6a).  

 

With RST sew the side seams of the shirt (front and back) (See Diagram #6a).  

Clip the underarms and turn RSO (See Diagram #6a).  

 

 

Put the shirt on the doll (See Diagram #6b).  

With WST turn the neck edge under 1/8” and sew a gathering stitch along the neck edge with the black DMC Embroidery floss (See Diagram #6b).   

Gather the neck edge of the shirt until it is tight to the neck (See Diagram #6b).    

Knot to secure and then tie the ends in a bow in the front (See Diagram #6b).

   

BANDANNA:   Cut the bandanna out using pinking shears.  

Tie the bandanna around the neck and knot it in the front (See Diagram #7).  

Congratulations! Peter Prim Tail is done.

Copyright © 2005-2023 Linda Walsh Originals – Designs by Linda Walsh

  

Peter Prim Tail's free e-pattern (see link below) contains the three pattern piece sheets at full size that you will need to cut out his pieces and make him. 

Peter Prim Tail!, 20” Primitive Bunny Doll Free E-Pattern - Stout Series - Pattern Category - Skill Level - Beginner

To view and download my "Peter Prim Tail!" free e-pattern (LW205) please CLICK HERE. You'll be brought to Google Drive where you can view my free e-pattern. Then just download my free .pdf e-pattern by clicking on the down arrow in the top center.  Or, just print off the three pattern pieces sheets at the end of the e-pattern.

For more information on all my free e-patterns, e-printables and e-books please CLICK HERE.

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