Linda Walsh Originals Blog Pages

Thursday, September 10, 2020

How To Make An Embroidered Leaf 3D Mini-Quilt


Fall has always been the season when I really get my creative juices flowing.  During one Fall season I was dabbling in quilted and embroidered leaf ornaments, buntings or garlands, and 3D mini-quilts.

This free e-book shows you how to make the embroidered leaf 3D mini-quilt  with 24 embroidered leaves as shown in the picture above.

Supplies Needed For The Leaves and 3D Mini-Quilt:


For the fabrics you need to buy enough of the Fall seasonal theme fabric for the 24 leaves you will be making for your 3D mini-quilt.  The 3D mini-quilt shown above has 24 leaves on a 19” x 21” mini-quilt.  
Quilt Fabric - 1 Yard Cotton Fabric - Dark Brown
DMC Embroidery Floss - Various Shades of Brown to Match Your Fabrics
1” Decorative Ribbon - 4 Feet 
Sewing Pins
Sewing Needles
Sewing Thread
Embroidery Needles
Iron–On Interfacing
Warm & Natural or Batting
Scissors
Wood Wire & Wood Mini-Quilt Holder
Sewing Machine
Glue Gun (Low Temperature) and Glue Sticks 

So, here’s how to make my embroidered leaf 3D mini-quilt: 

IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING.

1.  All seam allowances are ¼” unless otherwise stated.
2.  RST = Right Sides Together           WST = Wrong Sides Together          WS = Wrong Side
3.  RSO = Right Sides Out                   WSO = Wrong Sides Out                   RS = Right Side
4.  Clip all curves and corners.                                 
5.  Glue is hot glue unless otherwise noted.
6.  Iron fabric pieces and seams as required.  Seam edges should be ironed flat.
7.  Trace all pattern pieces onto tracing paper or tissue paper, or use the enclosed pattern pieces directly.  
Cut all fabric pieces outside the black lines shown on the pattern.  
9.  Trim seams to finish with pinking shears, if applicable.
10. The edges of the pattern pieces indicate the name of the other pattern piece it is to be sewn to except for the side seams,  which are indicated as side seams or side edges, and the shoulder seams, which are indicated as shoulder seam or edge and sleeve edge.  
11. Overlap all pattern pieces that require taping before cutting by approximately 1/4” or until the side lines match.
12. When hand stitching is required use the sewing thread.

There are 12 different size leaves that make up the 24 different leaves on the mini-quilt.  The leaves will be of different sizes but they are basically all made and embroidered the same way. 


1)  Start with the fabric you have chosen for ornament #2 and cut four leaf pieces out WST as indicated in the leaf pattern pieces for leaf ornament #1. One will be for the front of the leaf and one will be for the back of the leaf for the two leaves #1 are you making.

   

   

   

Pictures of the leaf pattern piece sheets are shown above.  For full size pattern piece sheets please CLICK HERE to download the full size pattern piece sheets for all twelve of the leaves from my free How To Make Embroidered Leaf 3D Mini-Quilt - Linda's How-Do-I Series? e-book.

2)  Do the same for the fabrics you have chosen for the #1, #3, #4, #4, #6, #7, #8, #9, #10, #11 and #12 leaf pieces cutting them out as indicated in their respective leaf pattern pieces, making sure yo have two leaves for each leaf # and then set them aside.  

3)  Cut one piece out of warm and natural or batting to fit each of the 24 different leaves using their respective leaf pattern piece.

4)  Cut four pieces of the iron-on interfacing to fit each of the 24 different leaves using their respective leaf pattern piece.  

Trim around the edges of the interfacing 1/16” so your interfacing will be ironed on 1/16” from each of the respective leaf edges. 


5)  Start with leaf ornament #2 and using the directions from your iron-on facing iron one of the iron-on leaf ornament #2 pieces you cut to the WS of one of the fabric leaf ornament #2 pieces you cut, as shown in Diagram #1 making sure your interfacing is 1/16” from the edge.  

6)  Do the same for the other iron-on leaf ornament # 2 pieces you cut and the WS of the remaining fabric leaf ornament #2 pieces.

7)  Do the same for the iron-on leaf pieces and fabric leaf pieces you cut for leaf ornament #1, #3, #4, #5, #6, #7, #8, #9, #10, #11 and #12.


8)  Pin one of the front leaf pieces for leaf ornament #2, warm and natural piece for leaf ornament #2, and one of the back pieces for leaf ornament #2 together so all the sides match and the warm and natural piece is in between the WS of the front and WS of the back leaf ornament #4 pieces, as shown in Diagram #2. 

Do the same for the other leaf ornament #2 pieces and warm and natural piece for ornament #2.

9)  Trim the edges so they are even, if necessary. 

10)  Do the same for all the Leaf Ornaments #1, #3, #4, #5, #6, #7, #8, #9, #10, #11 and #12 pieces you have.


A picture of my blanket stitch guide is shown above.  For a full size version of this guide please CLICK HERE to download the full size blanket stitch guide from my free  How To Make Embroidered Leaf 3D Mini-Quilt - Linda's How-Do-I Series? e-book.


11)  Using the Basic Blanket Stitch Guide embroider a blanket stitch around the outer edges of the two leaf ornaments #2 with 6 strands of the respective DMC embroidery floss for leaf ornament #2 and as shown in Diagram #3.

12) Do the same for the two Leaf Ornaments #1, #3, #4, #5, #6, #7, #8, #9, #10, #11 and #12 you have.

13)  Using six strands of the respective DMC embroidery floss for leaf ornament #2 cut a piece of the DMC embroidery floss long enough so you can embroider all the vein lines without needing to cut another piece of floss.


14)  You are working on a double sided ornament so using the Embroidery Stitch Guide for leaf ornament #2 you want to embroider a double running stitch on the front and back of the leaf ornament at the same time so you create the effect of vein lines, as shown for in Diagram #4.  

15)  Knot one end of the DMC embroidery floss and insert the needle in between the fabric and warm and natural layers along the top edge so as to cover the knot you are inserting in between the layers until you come out at the top of the center vein line at Point A, as shown in Diagram #4.  


16)  To create a double running stitch on both sides you are going to start at the top of the center vein line at Point A, as shown on Diagram #5, and embroider a running stitch down the center line and then embroider a running stitch back up the center line filling in the spaces in between your stitches until reaching the top of the center vein line at Point A again, as shown in Diagram #5.  

17) After inserting your knot at the top edge of leaf ornament #2 and exiting at Point A on the front side, insert the needle at Point B on the front side and come out at Point B on the back side then insert your needle at Point C on the back side and come and come out at Point C on the top side, as shown in Diagram #5. 

18)  Insert your needle at Point D on the front side and come out at Point D on the back side then insert your needle at Point E on the back side and come and come out at Point E on the top side, as shown in Diagram #5. 

19)  Insert your needle at Point F on the front side and come out at Point F on the back side then insert your needle at Point G on the back side and come and come out at Point G on the top side, as shown in Diagram #5. 

20)  Insert your needle at Point H on the front side and come out at Point H on the back side then insert your needle at Point I on the back side and come out at Point I on the top side, as shown in Diagram #5. 

21)  Insert your needle at Point J on the front side and come out at Point J on the back side then insert your needle at Point K on the back side and come out at Point K on the top side, as shown in Diagram #5. 

22)  Insert your needle at Point L on the front side and come out at Point L on the back side then insert your needle at Point M on the back side and come out at Point M on the top side, as shown in Diagram #5. 


23)  Insert your needle at Point N on the front side and come out at Point N on the back side then insert your needle at Point M on the back side and come out at Point M on the top side, as shown in Diagram #6. 

24)  Insert your needle at Point L on the front side and come out at Point L on the back side then insert your needle at Point K on the back side and come out at Point K on the top side, as shown in Diagram #6. 

25)  Insert your needle at Point J on the front side and come out at Point J on the back side then insert your needle at Point I on the back side and come out at Point I on the top side, as shown in Diagram #6. 

26)  Insert your needle at Point H on the front side and come out at Point H on the back side then insert your needle at Point G on the back side and come out at Point G on the top side, as shown in Diagram #6. 

27)  Insert your needle at Point F on the front side and come out at Point F on the back side then insert your needle at Point E on the back side and come out at Point E on the top side, as shown in Diagram #6. 

28)  Insert your needle at Point D on the front side and come out at Point D on the back side then insert your needle at Point C on the back side and come out at Point C on the top side, as shown in Diagram #6.

29)  Insert your needle at Point B on the front side and come out at Point B on the back side then insert your needle at Point A on the back side and come out at Point A on the top side, as shown in Diagram #6. 

  
30)  If you have enough floss left to continue embroidering the cross veins take a tiny stitch at Point A and re-insert your needle at Point A so your needle is between the fabric and warm and natural layers and come out at Point O, as shown in Diagram #7.  

31)  If you don’t have enough floss then take a tiny stitch at Point A and re-insert your needle at Point A between the fabric and warm and natural layers and come out at the top edge of the leaf ornament #4 and tie a tiny knot so it is hidden between the layers, too.  Cut the end of the floss.

32)  Cut a new length of floss long enough to finish embroidering the cross veins, knot one end, and insert between the layers of the fabric and warm and natural on the left side of the leaf ornament and come out at Point O, as shown in Diagram #7.

33)  For the side veins you are going to embroider a double running stitch like the one you embroidered down and then up the center vein of the leaf ornament only this time you will be working from left to right starting at Point O on the left side and going across until reaching the right side of that side vein then going back in a right to left direction until reaching Point O again, as shown in Diagram #7.

34)  Take a tiny stitch at Point O and re-insert your needle at Point O so your needle is between the fabric and warm and natural layers and come out at Point P, as shown in Diagram #7.  

35)  Starting at Point P on the left side embroider a running stitch going across until reaching the right side of that side vein then going back in a right to left direction until reaching Point P again, as shown in Diagram #7.

36)  Take a tiny stitch at Point P and re-insert your needle at Point P so your needle is between the fabric and warm and natural layers and come out at Point Q, as shown in Diagram #7. 

37)  Starting at Point Q on the left side embroider a running stitch going across until reaching the right side of that side vein then going back in a right to left direction until reaching Point Q again, as shown in Diagram #7.

38)  Take a tiny stitch at Point Q and re-insert your needle at Point Q so your needle is between the fabric and warm and natural layers and come out at Point R, as shown in Diagram #7.  
 
39)  Starting at Point R on the left side embroider a running stitch going across until reaching the right side of that side vein then going back in a right to left direction until reaching Point R again, as shown in Diagram #7.

40)  Take a tiny stitch at Point R and re-insert your needle at Point R between the fabric and warm and natural layers and come out at the bottom edge of the leaf ornament #4 between the layers of fabric and warm and natural and tie a tiny knot so it is hidden between the layers, too.  Cut the end of the floss. 

41)  You are going to embroider double running stitches for the other leaf ornament #2 and the two Leaf Ornaments #1, #3, #4, #5, #6, #7, #8, #9, #10, #11 and #12 you have in the same manner as you did for leaf ornament #2 using the Leaf Embroidery Pages for each respective leaf as a guide.  

When you are finished embroidering double running stitches for the remaining ornaments congratulate yourself.  Your 24 leaf ornaments are done. 

Now it’s time to sew the quilt and then to attach the embroidered leaves to create the 3D effect.


A picture of the quilt pattern piece sheet is shown above.  For the full size pattern piece sheet please CLICK HERE to download the full size pattern piece sheet for from my free  How To Make Embroidered Leaf 3D Mini-Quilt - Linda's How-Do-I Series? e-book.

Hanger - Cut two hanger pieces out of the same fabric as the quilt and lining on the fold as indicated on the hanger pattern piece.


With RST sew the two hanger pieces together along the side seams leaving the top and bottom seams open for turning (See Diagram #8).  

Trim the side seams.

Turn the hanger piece RSO and iron the piece flat.


Fold the quilt and lining hanger piece in half RST along the fold in half line so the top and bottom edges match (See  Diagram #9).

Baste the top and bottom edges together leaving the side edge open for inserting the wire and wood quilt hanger (See Diagram #9).

Set the hanger piece aside for now.

Quilt - Mark the Points A and Points B on the quilt (front) square, where indicated on the quilt pattern piece.  

Cut the quilt (front and back) pieces out of the same fabric on the double fold as indicated on the pattern piece.  

The quilt (front and back) squares are 13” by 13” and have a top seam, bottom seam, and two side seams 

Cut the quilt batting on the double fold as indicated on the pattern piece.  

The batting square is 13” by 13” and has a top seam, bottom seam, and two side seams.


Pin the RS of the top and bottom edge of the hanger piece that you basted to the RS of the top edge of one of the quilt (front) between the two Points B (See Diagram #10). 

The hanger will be facing in the right direction and at the top of the quilt when the quilt (front and back) is turned RSO. 

Pin the batting piece to the WS of the quilt (back).

Baste the batting piece to the WS of the quilt (back) along the top edge, side edges and bottom edge.


With RST pin the quilt (front) with the holder attached to the quilt (back) with the batting basted to it together (See Diagram #11).  

Starting at Point A on the right hand side of the quilt (front)  sew the quilt (front and back) in a clockwise direction down the right side edge, across the bottom edge, up the left hand side edge, across the top edge, and down the right hand side edge until you reach the top Point A using a 1/4” seam allowance and leaving the right hand side seam open between the two points A for turning RSO (See Diagram #11).  


Trim the seams and then turn the quilt  (front and back) RSO through the opening between the two Points A (See Diagram #12).  

Iron the seams flat.

The hanger should now be facing in the right direction on the top of the quilt (See Diagram #12).  

With WST hand stitch the opening between the two Points A closed using the sewing thread (See Diagram# 12).  

Now you want to position the embroidered leaves on the quilt so they appear to be in layers, sticking out the sides, top and bottom creating a 3D effect.  

You’ll be adding the embroidered leaves individually and in stages.  Before you do that it’s best to place them all on your quilt first to make sure you have enough of the embroidered leaves to cover the quilt and to have layers and have some of the leaves hanging off the left, right, top and bottom sides and that your design will be pleasing to the eye.

If you don’t have enough embroidered leaves make how ever many you many need to cover your quilt.


Start the bottom layers with the largest embroidered leaves and pin them to the quilt so four are springing out from the corners and four are springing out from the top, bottom and side edges (See Diagram #13)

When you are satisfied with the placement hand sew the embroidered leaves at their stems using the leaves respective DMC embroidery thread to the front of the quilt hiding your stitches along the vein lines (See Diagram #13).

Make sure your stitch only captures the front fabric of the quilt and does not show through to the back side of the quilt

You only need a couple of stitches as you want the leaf to be projecting from the quilt in a 3D manner.

When you are satisfied with your stem stitching sew two or three stitches to each leaf along the center vein line in the same manner as you sewed the stem stitches.


When you are happy with your leaf placement from Diagram #13 pin more of the large embroidered leaves to fill  in the center of the quilt and fill in the top, bottom and side edges (See Diagram #14).

When you are satisfied with the placement hand sew the embroidered leaves at their stems using the leaves respective DMC embroidery thread to the front of the quilt hiding your stitches along the vein lines (See Diagram #14).

Make sure your stitch only captures the front fabric of the quilt and does not show through to the back side of the quilt

You only need a couple of stitches as you want the leaf to be projecting from the quilt in a 3D manner.

When you are satisfied with your stem stitching sew two or three stitches to each leaf along the center vein line in the same manner as you sewed the stem stitches.


When you are happy with your leaf placement from Diagram #14 pin the remaining smaller embroidered leaves to fill  in the center of the quilt and fill in any of the areas that are blank (See Diagram #15).

When you are satisfied with the placement hand sew the embroidered leaves at their stems using the leaves respective DMC embroidery thread to the front of the quilt hiding your stitches along the vein lines (See Diagram #15).

Make sure your stitch only captures the front fabric of the quilt and does not show through to the back side of the quilt

You only need a couple of stitches as you want the leaf to be projecting from the quilt in a 3D manner.

If you feel that your quilt still needs more embroidered leaves then just create some and add them to the quilt in the same manner as you already have.


Insert the wood rod from your wire an wood quilt holder into the quilt holder piece at the top of your quilt (See Diagram #16).

Cut two 15” long pieces of the 1” decorative wired ribbon, form two medium size bows and trim the ends.

Position them on the quilt holder (front) so they are evenly placed and pleasing to the eye then glue them in place using the hot glue (See Diagram #16). 

Cut another 15” long piece of the 1” decorative wired ribbon and tie it in a bow at the top center of the wire and wood quilt holder (See Diagram #16).

Congratulations! Your embroidered leaf mini-quilt is done.   Hang it on your wall.  

Pictures of the leaf embroidery guide sheets are shown below.  For full size leaf embroidery guide sheets please CLICK HERE to download the full size leaf embroidery guide sheets for all seven of the leaves from my free  How To Make Embroidered Leaf 3D Mini-Quilt - Linda's How-Do-I Series? free e-book.

   

   

   

   

I also created a free e-book for you showing how I made my embroidered leaf ornaments garland shown in the picture at the top of this post and above.


To view and download my free e-book please CLICK HERE. You'll be brought to Google Drive where you can view my free e-book. Then just download my free .pdf e-book by clicking on the down arrow in the top center.

For more information on all my free e-patterns, e-printables and e-books please CLICK HERE.

Please respect My Terms of Use:  All patterns, e-patterns, printables, e-printables, e-books, graphics, tutorials, how-to's, articles and other e-products © 2004-2023 Linda Walsh Originals-Designs by Linda Walsh. All rights reserved. Commercial selling or reselling by any means prohibited without the written consent of Linda Walsh.

Patterns, e-patterns, printables, e-printables, e-books, graphics, tutorials, how-to's, articles and other e-products are for personal use only. You may not modify, photocopy, download, upload, post, transmit, display, perform, publish, license, reprint, create derivative works from, mass duplicate, re-sell, digitize, and reproduce in any other form (print, digital or electric) or commercially apply, embed, share, Email, or redistribution in any other means. Use of any of the above is prohibited without the written permission of Linda Walsh.

However, you may link to my website(s)/blog(s) and the individual page(s)/blog post(s) (including 1 picture) but do not copy, reprint or duplicate my website(s)/blog(s) or individual page(s)/post(s ) without my permission.

Items made from Linda Walsh Originals E-Patterns are intended for personal use for fun or small scale personal and business profit as long as you credit us with the design. Large scale commercial use (i.e. mass production) of items made from Linda Walsh Originals E-Patterns are by permission only.

Please see my Terms and Conditions for additional information.

Copyright © 2004 - 2023 - All Rights Reserved - Written By Linda Walsh of Linda Walsh Originals and Linda's Blog. Linda is a doll maker and doll pattern designer.



No comments:

Post a Comment